The Sig 1/4 Scale Piper "J-3 Cub"
A Photo Essay by
Graham H. Hicks
Foreword:
Graham and I "met" over the WWW back when RCM still had their long-gone forum running... We were both quite active on it, as are a great many of RCOL's regulars.... His congeniality and teriffic sense of humor made many of us smile, and his willingness to share knowledge garnered over many years of RC experience has helped many... (ask Mike Wood)...
There are,of course, several photos contained in this article... Give them time to load; you'll be glad you waited...
I was honored to scan the photos for this display.... As for the rest of it, well, check out my friend Graham's expertise..................
Bill Fulmer
Is it live... or is it Memorex? Which twin has the Toni??
Is that an antenna sticking out behind the one on the left?.... with another model to the right of it?? Or....
Can YOU tell??? (Email me and I'll tell you... B.F.) .....Back to Graham...
Building the "Cub"....
Mike Gretz, at Sig Manufacturing Co., has done a fine job of designing and engineering their quarter-scale J-3 Cub, kit # RC-48. For a large model, it goes together very nicely. A prospective builder should not expect to open the box and find all formers die-cut and ready to align in a fuse jig; on the contrary, such a model requires special techniques in building even the formers so that the resultant strength will carry the ship through rough handling and landings.
I will write this review as though we were going to build the kit exactly as the plans call for. Following the review, I'll then retrace some steps in which I departed from the kit in order to make the ship more scale-like.
The instruction book is very well done, and I cannot remember but one point at which I was confused by a direction or photograph. I'll mention that when we come to it. Most of the photo illustrations have been retouched where necessary, so that corners and dimensions are more evident.
Sig, of course, recommends their own glues for construction; I found that four different bonding agents took care of my entire ship. I used thick CA for virtually all balsa-to-balsa joints, and two-hour epoxy for EVERYTHING forward of the cabin. A note here: many modelers seem to feel that epoxy is epoxy, and the five-minute stuff is as good as the two-hour type. I don't. Epoxy gains its strength from seeping into the pores of the wood. When you use a 5-minute epoxy, it starts "setting" within a few minutes of application, which allows it very little time to penetrate the wood. The two-hour glue, on the other hand, has much more time to get down into the inner pores and grab a good hold. Thus I do not even own a set of 5-minute epoxy; the shortest setting epoxy I will use is 30-minute, and that only on balsa joints such as fin and stab mounting, where the wood is less dense and the 30-minutes appear to be enough to let it soak in. I still advocate two-hour epoxy for everything forward of the cabin. The third glue I used was Pacer's "Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo," henceforth referred to as "ZADAG." This was used to attach the aluminum lithoplate boot cowl and all windshield and window joints. And the fourth was P. F. M., a very thick, strong but flexible milky-clear glue much like ZADAG but much stronger, in my view.
I started by building the tail feathers, just to get a feel for quarter-scale construction and materials. A jig saw is almost a necessity for this kit; I think Sig realizes that die-smashing 1/4-inch balsa is going to be a pretty messy operation, so they simply supply wood with the parts clearly printed and identified on them. A homemade disk sander after the jig saw made very quick work of preparing stab and rudder parts. I used my old "wax paper over the plans" method of building and had no problems. Once built, I covered both the stab and elevator, using Sig's "Koverall" for scale effect. I'll get into the covering aspect later.
I then tackled the fuselage. The plans and photos are very clear as to how to make up the formers for the fuse. The fuse sides are built over the plans, taking great care to make them identical; in fact, once I built one side, I simply left it in place, covered it with wax paper, then build the other side over it, assuring that alignment was perfect. The fuse sides are built on the plans only up to the front of the cabin; the forward sides and nose section are added later. With both sides built, the use of a small square is essential to make sure the formers are perfectly square when gluing the fuse sides together. As the plans direct, epoxy should be used to assemble the cabin section. There is a minor glitch in the plans/photos on page 7 of the instruction book. The photo above step (f.) shows a small notch cut out of the fuse bottom for the wing strut plywood mounting plate, but the notch is not present in the next photo, with the formers being glued on. Just make sure this notch is present in both sides before progressing; the ply mount block is FLUSH with the bottom of the fuse. I found an easy way to get just the right angle sanded on the rear fuse sides for joining is to glue #120 sandpaper to BOTH sides of a piece of heavy brass or aluminum, then put it between the two sides, bend them together until they're touching the sandpaper, and sand back and forth until the proper angle is reached. You want about 5/16" of thickness at the tail when they are glued together. Once the tail is glued together you can build the nose section. Pay close attention to the spacing of the firewall parts, and use two-hour epoxy for these. Build this nose section strongly, even if you have to overdo the glue part. My ship, finished, weighs just under 16# with a very heavy Saito 150s up front, and is by no means nose heavy. Make sure you understand all the dimensions of the nose assembly. I think the use of 5/32" wire to link the wing mount with the forward fuselage is ingenious.
Somewhere in here you need to decide how to mount your fuel tank. A friend here built the Sig J-3 and left the 5/8" nose bottom block off, arranging to screw it on later so he could have access to the inside of the nose section. I glued mine in per the plans, and used 1/2# eye-screws, opened up and screwed in upside down, which act as hooks for two #64 rubber bands to hold the 12-oz. tank up against the underside of the nose assembly top. This is illustrated clearly with J-hooks in a photo on page 27. I also glued hardwood blocks on top of the piece between formers F-2 and the firewall and F-3/F-4 for the eye-screws to thread into. As luck would have it, I initially installed the tank upside down, and found to my relief that it was relatively easy to take it out and turn it over. Make sure that you can have access to the tank, then drill two 1/4 inch holes low in the firewall for the fuel feed and muffler pressure lines to run into. Label them clearly.
The rest of the fuselage is pretty much standard procedure. Be sure to get the stab mounting pieces level before gluing the stab on. I covered my stab first, because I made a special modification to it which I'll describe later.
As to the cowl, well, ABS plastic has a pretty nasty reputation where vibration is present, but I assembled the standard kit cowl, then sanded the inside with coarse paper, washed it with soap and water, let it dry, and coated it with 2-oz fiberglass cloth. It has about an hour of engine running time on it at this writing, and is showing no sign of cracking or fatigue. You can cut out and paint the dummy engine and shroud if you want per the plans; I'll tell you what I did with this area later. The top right photo on page 11 shows six hardwood blocks epoxied to the firewall for cowl screws; I modified this to ten -- three on each side and four across the top.
Then I tackled the wing. I hate to build wings. But Sig has made this about as easy as a big wing can be. Study the way the center section and left wing are first built and joined together as one piece. Follow the directions precisely; if you block sand before directed to do so, you can end up with nasty gaps that must be filled or otherwise hidden. I found that the dihedral angle built into the denter section is just slightly more than that found on the full scale aircraft; so if you are a stickler for scale, you might take a degree or two off as you are building. Just remember to do the same to the right wing, because the center section sets the dihedral for BOTH wings. I find it almost unnoticeable, but it's there, and if I had known this while building it, I would have dropped both wings just a wee bit. This could be done by simply taking off about a sixteenth from the TOP of the wing dihedral brace, so that the wing falls a bit further down before "bottoming out." The full-size Cub has almost no dihedral.
The wing joining scheme is another very clever feature of this kit. The front and rear "tongues" hold the wings in perfect alignment, and the 6-32 screw keeps them together. It's important to make sure the tongues are a snug fit but not a tight one, or you'll smash leading edges trying to pull them apart. A little talcum powder on them will help them slide more easily. Wingtips are laminated from four strips (each) of 1/16" balsa. With care they can be put on with thick CA, and they form a very strong bow when set. Study the order and placement of wingtip parts where the tips join the wings, especially at the aileron joints. I worked a little too fast here and had to backtrack to make one aileron come out the proper length.
The ailerons are built as part of the wings and then sawed free. Again, be sure to understand the alignment of all parts of the aileron sheeting before gluing, and then the process of cutting them loose. I personally prefer building the wing without ailerons and then building the ailerons separately, but you aren't given the choice here; just check and double-check each step before you cut anything.
Mating the wing to the fuse is easy. Before you even fit it to the cabin, check to see if you need to cut off the ends of the cabin wires. In my case, they were long enough to strike wing center section former WS-1, and I almost splintered it trying to shove the wing all the way forward. Cut the cabin wires off, leaving only about 5/16" behind former F-5 to insure they don't hit the inner former. Be sure you leave about 1/ 16" of "gap" between the trailing edge of the wing and the matching cabin former; this will become occupied with covering and paint later, and you don't want to have to sand these off once it's painted. Measure carefully from an identical point on each wingtip to the center of the rudder post to get the wing placed exactly square with the fuse. You don't need a tape measure to do this; just put a small loop in a piece of fishing line and loop it over a T-pin in the rudder post, then measure back and forth between right and left wingtips until they are the same distance. Once you have the main wing bolts in, you can drill the 1/4" holes for the wing alignment dowels through F-5 and the wing dihedral block. Before you glue in the dowels, sharpen them slightly on a sander so they'll find the holes more easily.
Aileron servos are mounted in each wing just forward of the ailerons. The book gives you a choice of two aileron control systems: using one servo for each aileron, or using a single servo with 90-degree bellcranks. There is no question that the first system is far simpler and safer in this case, since with a two-piece wing you'd have to rig a system to mate up pushrods when assembling the wings. I mounted mine essentially as shown in method one on page 26.
Be sure, when mounting the blind 4-40 nuts in the wing for struts and jury struts that you get them solidly mounted, with plenty of epoxy. I like to insert the nut into the hole a bit, then put a bit of epoxy around the hole, then tighten it down with a 4-40 bolt in it from the bottom. Finally, add a little epoxy around the flange edges. Smear a little grease or oil on the bolt before screwing it in, and it'll not stick to the epoxy. But it's the devil to try to replace one of those if you don't glue it down solidly the first time.
Bending the jury struts from the brass tubing supplied is a little tricky, and I had to do one of them over. Just come as close as you can to what the book tells you, following the diagrams on the full-size plans, and they'll fit OK. Don't assume the jury struts are "just dress," though; they're very necessary to the strength of the wing.
The radio installation as shown in the book is quite simple and easy to do while the model is still "in the bones." If you're going to use pull-pull cables for the rudder/tailwheel, rig them NOW and mark carefully where the cables need to exit the fuselage under the stab; you don't want to be cutting large holes in the fabric to bring out the cables. I rigged mine early on, and attached the clevises to them. I used Berkley "Steelon" fishing leader, and ran the cables through a little brass tubing "bearing" glued to an upright just under the stab, which also kept the cable ends from getting pulled back into the fuse. When I had the ship covered and painted, I had marked on the plans exactly where the slot was to be cut for the cable exit. I cut it using a Dremel cutoff wheel and the cables pulled out precisely where they were supposed to.
The landing gear shown is perfectly adequate for sport flying. I highly recommend one of the stainless steel solders, such as "Sta-Brite" when soldering the LG wires. If you use a propane torch, don't get the metal too hot, or the flux will burn and you won't get a good joint. A good, hot, 200-watt iron is slower, but safer if you're not professionally into soldering. I'll describe later my mods to the landing gear.
I covered my ship with Sig's Koverall. It's very easy to use, and though it takes longer, you never have to worry about bubbles or sags. I have put it on both wet and dry, and can't tell much difference in the result. I first put on two light coats of nitrate dope (NEVER USE BUTYRATE DOPES -- THEY WILL JUST NOT MIX WITH MUCH ELSE), sanding lightly between coats just to remove the whiskers. Then cut out the fabric just as though you were applying a film, leaving an inch or so surplus. Now put on another good, thick coat of nitrate (over the outside framework only, please) and while it's still wet, lay the Koverall down on it. With the brush, work around the edges with a fourth coat of nitrate, rubbing it in with your fingers where necessary. Try to get most of the large wrinkles out now, but don't worry -- this stuff pulls up intantaneously when your're ready to shrink it. Let this fourth coat dry, then do another one on top of it. Now, using clean 180 sandpaper, go around the outside edges and sand off the excess Koverall. Finally, put one more coat of nitrate around the edges to seal them, and you're ready to heat shrink it. Do this with a good heat gun, but go slowly at first; you'll be amazed at how little heat it takes to pull up the Koverall to drumhead tightness. Work your way around the outside edges first, then hit the middle for the final shrink. You may find that your fabric wrinkled a little over some of the wood areas; no matter -- just hit them once with the gun fairly close and they'll pull right out, even with dried nitrate dope on them. The Koverall then needs at least two coats of nitrate dope brushed or sprayed over the entire surface, and then it's ready for the primer. The nice thing about nitrate dopes is that you can use almost anything to paint color over them - NOT the case with butyrates (read "Aerogloss"). I primed my Cub with K & B white primer, then painted it white to match the prototype I was modeling. Two coats primer, two coats color and it's done. Nice finish.
The Sig Q/S Cub flies very scale-like with a good .90 4C or I'm sure would go up with a hot .70 two-stroke. I wanted to "fly quiet," so I put a new Saito 150S in mine, and it does exactly that -- about all you can hear as it turns final is the "swish" of the prop, and takeoffs are at about 1/3 to « throttle. I came into a used JR Century VII radio a while back and am using it for guidance.
Flying: I was a bit distressed on the maiden flight to find that the Cub needed a good bit of right rudder to stay straight, until my full-scale brain told me I was flying a much bigger model than before, and this was normal. So I just cranked in about a half inch of rudder deflection with the trim at center, and it behaves very nicely. It comes in just under 16 pounds dry. It's a real pussycat to fly, and I think I will enjoy doing contest work with it this summer and next, if I can get the jitters out of my thumbs!
Modifying the Sig Q/S "Cub" for Sport Scale
I'll now describe some of the modifications I made to my Sig J-3 to make it more competitive in a Sport Scale contest. The photos show several of these mods. Let's start at the engine and work aft.
I made a display spinner from two pieces of 1"pine, laminated together. I cut them into a circle the size of the final diameter wanted, and drilled a hole almost through it with a drill slightly smaller than the prop shaft. I then screwed a cut-off 5/16" bolt down into the hole and chucked the bolt in a drill press. Using this as a "lathe" and a Dremel tool with a 1/2" sanding drum, I shaped it into the typical Cub spinner. I finally sanded it smooth and covered it with six pie-shaped pieces of aluminum trim tape.
The display prop is cut down from an old 22 x 10 prop that had gotten too beat-up to fly. I cut the length to about 17 inches, shaped the blades on a disk sander, smoothed them with #400 paper, and covered the front surfaces with the same trim tape. The hub is painted flat black, as is the rear surface of the prop. Tips are masked and painted yellow for visibility.
The dummy engine that comes with the kit is fine for sport, but will not garner many points in a contest. My former student and dentist showed me how to make a great dummy engine by using a hole saw to cut out several sizes of disks from sheets of 1/32" aircraft ply. I then made an "engine base" from a piece of lite-ply about 1 1/2" x 4", and drilled it and mounted two 1/4" dowels vertically on it to build the dummy cylinders onto. Holding the ply disks together tightly, I sanded them on the disk sander until they represented the proper taper and cylinder shape I wanted, then I CA'd them onto the dowels, alternating the shaped disks with smaller ply disks for spacers in between them. You end up with a great looking dummy engine with two cylinders which, sprayed with aluminum paint, look absolutely real from fifteen feet. (Since much of this "scale-izing" was done with the "fifteen foot" judging distance in mind, I'll just use "fff" henceforth to indicate "from fifteen feet.") The cooling shroud in the kit is also of little use here; I made another from sheet brass (left side only) and screwed it into the cowl over the dummy engine into blind nuts glued with P. F. M. inside the cowl. I epoxied together a rough exhaust pipe from soft pine, then shaped it with knives and the Dremel sander to resemble the actual exhaust. I inletted the dummy cylinders to accept the dummy exhaust pipes, then ran it back to where it enters the cowl behind the engine. The cylinder heads are cut out from the kit-supplied dummy engine, covered with aluminum trim tape, and glued with ZADAG to the shroud. All together, it's pretty convincing fff.
On the full-scale plane, the fuse area just aft of the engine cowl is sheet metal. I duplicated this "boot cowl" using aluminum lithoplate, which I got free from my local newspaper print shop. I cut patterns from manila file folders until it fit the nose section, then duplicated it in the lithoplate. This gives an added dimension to the model, and allows you to add "rivets" that look real fff.
The molding around the windscreen over the boot cowl and the molding strips covering the rear edges of the windscreen are also of this lithoplate. Use lots of manila file folders to make patterns until you have it just right, then cut the aluminum. Same goes for the windscreen itself in the kit building.
I added a little vacuum venturi per the prototype, turned from a 3/8" birch dowel on the drill press, and hollowed out fore and aft with the Dremel burr. This is mounted on the starboard side, just aft of the engine, on the boot cowl.
Hydraulic brake lines on the prototype were simulated with 1/8" black bungee cord and CA'd to the LG fairings and forward fuselage where they exit and enter.
I departed significantly from the kit landing gear by studying the full-scale Cub gear and making a center joint for the upper and lower gear struts from 1/8" aluminum sheet. These struts bolt into this plate, and the lower struts actually have a real bungee cord shock absorber in each leg. These are "booted" by short lengths of bicycle inner tube, tied at each end with black nylon cable ties. Look great fff.
On to the rear of the fuse. Probably the most significant change I made to the whole model was finding a way to "hide" the elevator control horn. I did this by installing a 90-degree nylon bellcrank just under the elevator hinge. It's pivoted on a 4-40 bolt which is locked with four nuts between two pieces of 1/16" plywood, epoxied to the inside rear fuse frames. I used stiff carbon fiber to cover all four sides of the hardwood block that links the elevator halves, then drilled a hole for a 4-40 hardened steel bolt which goes through this block and is locked in place with a Loctited nut. A short pushrod runs from the upper bellcrank end to a 4-40 clevis screwed onto the hardened steel bolt. Finally, the bottom of the bellcrank is connected with a fiberglass arrow shaft pushrod to a heavy duty servo on the cabin floor. Yeah, I know it's a little hard to visualize, but if you get the general idea you can figure it out for yourself. It's great not to have that nylon horn hanging out in the wind.
The rudder and C. B. Tailwheel are controlled by a custom-made steel horn, copied from a close-up photo of the original. Pull-pull cables operate this mechanism.
The wing. I simulated rib stitching very subtly by covering each rib with ScaleStits 1/2" rib tape. After priming and sanding and JUST before painting, I used Tulip brand fabric paint to add stitches over the rib tapes. This paint, when it dries, seeps down into the rib tape just enough to look like it's UNDER the tape instead of on top of it, and is smashing fff.
I copied a little antenna from the original, using brass tube and a sheet brass plate to mount in on top of the wing just forward of the hatch window. The antenna shaft is also of brass tubing so it will bend or break in the event of a nose-over and not damage the wing.
Since the prototype I was modeling was fitted with nav lights, I thought it would be fun to have them working on the model. I first modified a large servo wheel by mounting a tapered plywood cam under the wheel and gluing a microswitch with a roller arm just under it. When the retract switch is hit, the servo runs to the stop and the tapered cam actuates the switch. The three lights are operated by a separate battery pack of four alkaline cells in series-parallel, so I have 1 1/2 volts with plenty of lasting power to light the Radio Shack bulbs. I made the actual lights from 3/8" birch dowels, turned on the drill press and hollowed out to accept the bulbs. The lights are installed with mating pieces of brass tubing -- 1/8" glued into the wingtip bows and fin tips, and smaller pieces of 3/32" tubing are glued into the light housings, insulated from each other, and the leads from the bulbs are soldered to these. So the brass tubes form both the electrical contacts and the mechanical means for holding the lights in place. In the evening they look great fff! (I know people that would consider lights on a "Cub" verging on blasphemy... what's next, a self-starter??.. :) bf)
The full-scale Cub has pull-pull ailerons. Though I drive each aileron with a pushrod exiting the bottom of the wing, I made custom aileron horns from stiff carbon fiber, and the tops of these stick out the tops of the ailerons about 3/8" each. The Cub is fitted with small teardrop-shaped plastic "bubbles," which hide the top aileron cable exits. I made up these by shaping a piece of soft pine to the teardrop shape and gluing it onto a short dowel for a handle. Then I cut that teardrop shape from the center of a small piece of formica scrap, leaving just about 1/16" clearance around it. I made the bubbles by clamping a small sheet of .010 acetate over this formica, heating it with the Monokote gun, and then jamming the male mold down through the hole. Voila! In two tries I had two perfect teardrop bubbles. The pushrods from the top of the ailerons are thus dummies, which simply enter these "bubbles" from the rear and end inside them. Of course, they move back and forth when the ailerons move, but one cannot tell whether it is they that are operating the ailerons, or the bottom ones, or both.
My good friend Bill Fulmer, who asked me to write this tortuous treatise, just happened to have some teal-colored sign vinyl, which he used to make the N-numbers for the fuselage. My local auto paint shop matched up this color perfectly, and the cowl, boot cowl, and the trim stripe are air-brushed with auto acrylic urethane enamel.
Here's a few shots of the results of the above, showing some of the modifications and details...
Yours truly with the standard "tourist shot" of the model. Wallowa Mountains in the background.
My bride of 30 years, Barbara, with "Der GrossCub"
Port side view.
Starboard front quarter view.
Fin navlight. Both wing navlights and this one were machined from a birch dowel using a drill press and a Dremel tool with a sanding drum. The body was then hollowed out with a Dremel burr, and two 3/32" holes drilled side by side to accept two pieces of brass tubing, epoxied in place. Then a 1.5V Radio Shack bulb was installed in the body and it's leads soldered to the two brass tubes, which then formed both the mechanical fastening and the electrical contacts. They plug into two mating `1/8" brass tubes epoxied into the fin/wing tips, which are in turn hardwired to a microswitch operated by the retract channel servo to turn the lights on and off.
The dash panel is made from J'Tec instruments and replicates the fullscale almost exactly.
The windscreen is held in place by Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo and #1 sheet metal screws set into the side frames. The molding is aluminum lithoplate glued on with ZADAG. The false rivet heads are "Tulip" brand fabric paint (gun metal color), dropped into indentations made with a pointed file end to simulate the way real rivets would appear. The boot cowl is also of lithoplate and covers the fuse top from under the engine cowl all the way back to over the dash panel. Also glued on with ZADAG.
The dummy engine is made from disks of 1/32" aircraft plywood gang cut with a hole saw and glued onto 1/4" dowels, using smaller spacers of the same ply to separate the fins. The shroud is bent from brass sheet an bolted to blind nuts inside the cowl. The exhaust pipe is carved from three pieces of pine and painted to resemble slightly burned metal. The valve covers are cut fron the molded ABS dummy engines that came with the Sig kit, and covered with aluminum auto trim tape. They're glued onto the shroud with ZADAG.
The oil cooler radiator was cut from the ABS kit cowl and re-glued in place to simulate the prototype, which sports a 100 hp. engine, instead of the 65 originally installed. Screen door screen is used for the grill, with aluminum trim tape.
The wing nav lights are made and installed the same way as the fin light. The fin lens is clear, while the wing lenses are, of course, red and green. The lenses were hot molded from .010" acetate, using a shaped dowel for the male mold and a simple hole drilled into a board for the female. The plastic was heated with a covering gun, then the dowel was plunged through it into the hole to make the lenses. Color is from enamel paints on the inside of the lenses, and the lights are visible in daylight shade.
The prototype photos (from Bob Banka's Scale Model Research -- PhotoPaak # 1071) show wing fuel tanks covered with a thin metal plate. This was replicated using lithoplate and the indented rivet technique described above. The gas capsare made from a disk cut from a broomstick, and glued onto a 5/8" dowel (for the tank neck), fluted with the Dremel sanding drum, and the wire float level indicators epoxied in. The black lines are formed using a peculiar black plastic tape I found in a Prentiss, Mississippi fire sale store. I bought all four rolls they had, so I wouldn't run out. The store burned a couple of years ago.
The vacuum venturi was a gain machined from a 3/8" birch dowel with the drill press and Dremel sanding drum, and hollowed out from thefront and rear to simulate the full-scale. The "Piper" logo is pressed onto a piece of lithoplate to give it some dimension, and screwed into the boot cowl side. The engine cowl fasteners are #2 hex head wood screws from Micro-Fasteners.
The cabin entry step is bent from 5/32" aluminum clothesline wire and epoxied into holes drilled into the frame.
Showing the Saito 150S engine installation and dummy engine. Note the needle valve adjustment opening. The needle valve has a hex head 6/32 bolt head soldered to it for easy adjustment. Prop is a zinger 18 X 6. We tached the engine idling at 1400 RPM for several minutes on the second flight day -- no battery attached. Fuel is Byron 15% nitro, 16% oil. Radio is a JR Century Seven, with a 1300mah flight pack. The elevator control horn is hidden inside the fuselage and is activated by a 90-degree bellcrank underneath it. Ellevator and rudder servos are DAD Pro Plus, aileron, throttle, and light are DAD Pros.
A pretty flyby on the maiden flight!!
If you've read this whole article, you're either a Cub nut or half a sandwich short of a picnic. In either case, I hope I've given you some ideas for ways to have fun with your next model, be it a Cub or a Caribou. If you like, send me your comments or questions at gramhix@eoni.com . Enjoy the hobby!
Graham Hicks